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On the ground
The practical layer
Transport, connectivity, health, conduct. The things that make the difference between a smooth trip and a tense one.
Photography & checkpoints
This is where visitors most often get into avoidable trouble. The rules are unwritten but consistently enforced, and a camera pointed at the wrong thing is treated seriously.
- Never photograph checkpoints, soldiers, military vehicles or government buildings
- Put the camera away as you approach a checkpoint, not as you reach it
- Drones are effectively prohibited; do not travel with one
- Damaged neighbourhoods are people's homes — ask your guide before photographing ruins
- Keep a phone free of anything politically sensitive; devices are occasionally inspected
Verified 10 Oct 2026