Getting around

Intercity buses are cheap and reliable between major cities; everything off that grid runs on shared taxis and hired drivers. Self-drive rental exists but is uncommon, and a driver who knows the checkpoints is worth more than the saving.

• Kadmous and Al-Ahliah run the main intercity coach routes at very low fares
• Shared taxis, called servees, fill the gaps and leave when full rather than on a timetable
• Castles and ruins off the bus network need a private car — budget $60–120 a day with driver
• Main highways are in reasonable condition; mountain and rural roads much less so
• Fuel shortages still occur — build buffer time into any long road day
• Expect checkpoints on every intercity route; keep your passport accessible, not in a bag in the boot